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All 40 places

Forty places across all thirteen regions: villages, small towns, coast and mountains. Each page has the history, what to see, the train from Paris and the climate.

What are you tired of?

Tick what you want to get away from; places that don’t fit fade out. “Crowds”: places we judge very busy in season (an editorial call). “Heat”: July average high of 27 °C or more. “Long rides”: over 4 hours by train. “Car”: no railway station within 2.6 km.

0h40 Town · Île-de-France (beyond Paris) Fontainebleau Seven centuries of French kings in one palace, wrapped in a vast forest of sandstone boulders, oaks and painters’ viewpoints. 1h06 City · Hauts-de-France Amiens France’s largest Gothic cathedral, floating market gardens reached by flat-bottomed boat, and the town where Jules Verne spent his last thirty years. 1h21 Town · Île-de-France (beyond Paris) Provins The great medieval fair town of Champagne, still walled, with a twelfth-century keep, merchants’ cellars and tunnels under the streets. 1h21 City · Pays de la Loire Angers The old capital of Anjou: a striped fortress of seventeen towers guarding the greatest medieval tapestry in the world. 1h30 Town · Centre–Val de Loire Amboise A royal château over the Loire, the manor where Leonardo da Vinci spent his last three years, and a chapel that holds what may be his bones. 1h31 City · Grand Est Nancy An eighteenth-century square gilded by a Polish king, a medieval ducal town, and the French capital of Art Nouveau. 1h32 Town · Hauts-de-France Laon A medieval town on a ridge above the Picardy plain, with a Gothic cathedral whose towers are guarded by sixteen stone oxen. 1h40 Town · Pays de la Loire Saumur A white-stone town on the Loire, crowned by a fairy-tale château, home of the Cadre Noir riders and sparkling wine aged in caves. 1h49 Coast · Normandy Étretat White chalk cliffs carved into arches and a needle, a shingle beach between them, and a village that painters and writers made famous. 1h56 City · Centre–Val de Loire Bourges A Gothic cathedral with no transept and five great portals, a merchant’s palace, and market gardens on the marshes at the edge of town. 2h05 Town · Burgundy–Franche-Comté Beaune A walled wine town with the most famous roof in Burgundy, a medieval hospital for the poor, and the Côte’s great vineyards at the edge of town. 2h12 Coast · Normandy Honfleur A slate-hung harbour town at the mouth of the Seine, where explorers sailed for Canada and painters learned to paint the sky. 2h12 Town · Normandy Bayeux Home of the Tapestry, freed the day after D-Day: a Norman cathedral, water mills on the river Aure and the landing beaches close by. 2h17 Village · Burgundy–Franche-Comté Vézelay One street climbing a Burgundian hill to a Romanesque basilica where, on the summer solstice, sunlight lays a path of light down the nave. 2h20 Town · Grand Est Colmar Painted timber houses over the canals of Little Venice, one of Europe’s most overwhelming altarpieces, and the Alsace wine route at the door. 2h29 Coast · Brittany Saint-Malo A granite corsair city ringed by ramparts, with island forts you can walk to at low tide and some of the biggest tides in Europe. 2h29 Town · Centre–Val de Loire Chinon A long royal fortress above the Vienne where Henry II died and Joan of Arc met her king, a slate-roofed old town and red wine from cabernet franc. 2h33 Coast · Nouvelle-Aquitaine La Rochelle An Atlantic port guarded by medieval towers, with arcaded streets, a stubborn Protestant past and a long tradition of doing things by bike. 2h38 Village · Burgundy–Franche-Comté Arbois Pasteur’s home town, capital of Jura wine: vin jaune, a river running under houses, and a limestone gorge just beyond the last street. 2h39 Town · Grand Est Langres A walled hilltop town near the source of the Marne: Diderot’s birthplace, with 3.6 km of ramparts to walk all the way round. 2h39 Village · Hauts-de-France Montreuil-sur-Mer A walled hilltop town that lost its sea, where Victor Hugo set the opening of Les Misérables and Haig ran the British army in the First World War. 2h44 Village · Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Pérouges A walled weavers’ town on a hilltop near Lyon, cobbled end to end, with a liberty tree in the square and sugar galette in every oven. 2h44 Village · Nouvelle-Aquitaine Saint-Émilion A honey-stone wine town tumbling into a hollow of the limestone, with a church carved out of the rock beneath its steep lanes. 3h02 Town · Brittany Dinan Half-timbered houses, 2.6 km of ramparts and a cobbled street plunging seventy-five metres down to a little port on the Rance. 3h02 Town · Pays de la Loire Guérande A walled Breton town of grey granite overlooking a chequerboard of salt marshes, where paludiers still rake salt by hand. 3h28 Town · Brittany Quimper Capital of Cornouaille, where rivers meet under a crooked Gothic cathedral and hand-painted faience has been made since the seventeenth century. 3h36 Town · Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur Arles A Roman city on the Rhône where Van Gogh painted his brightest year, with an arena still in use and the Camargue at its gates. 3h43 Lake & mountains · Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Annecy Canals, a prison on an island and a lake clear enough to swim in, with the Alps standing right at the end of the street. 4h27 Town · Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Le Puy-en-Velay A cathedral town built on volcanic plugs, where a chapel crowns a ‘needle’ of rock and pilgrims set off for Santiago every morning. 4h53 Town · Nouvelle-Aquitaine Sarlat-la-Canéda The golden-stone capital of the Périgord Noir: Gothic and Renaissance mansions, stone-slab roofs and one of France’s great food markets. 5h15 Mountains · Nouvelle-Aquitaine Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port A walled Basque town of red sandstone on the river Nive, where pilgrims to Santiago set off over the Pyrenees. 5h24 Town · Occitanie Carcassonne A medieval fortress city with two rings of walls and dozens of towers on a hill above the Aude, rescued from demolition in the 1850s. 5h32 Mountains · Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Chamonix-Mont-Blanc The valley where mountaineering was born: Mont Blanc over the rooftops, a glacier by rack railway, and a cable car to nearly 3,850 metres. 6h02 City · Occitanie Albi A red-brick episcopal city on the Tarn: a fortress-cathedral painted inside from floor to vault, and the world’s largest Toulouse-Lautrec collection. 6h18 Coast · Occitanie Collioure A Catalan fishing port where the Pyrenees meet the Mediterranean, with a sea-washed church tower and the light that gave birth to Fauvism. 6h37 Village · Occitanie Conques A slate-roofed village hidden in a wooded gorge, built around a Romanesque abbey church, a famous Last Judgement and a golden reliquary. 6h39 Coast · Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur Menton The last town on the Riviera before Italy: a Baroque old quarter in ochre and pink, lemon groves, subtropical gardens and Cocteau. 6h56 Mountains · Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur Briançon France’s highest town, a star-shaped Vauban fortress of bright façades and rushing gutters, ringed by forts on mountain spurs. ✈ / ⛴ Coast · Corsica Bonifacio A Genoese citadel perched on white limestone cliffs at the southern tip of Corsica, staring across the strait at Sardinia. ✈ / ⛴ Mountains · Corsica Corte The mountain capital of Corsica’s short-lived independent republic: an eagle’s-nest citadel, a student town, and wild gorges at its door.

Regions